San Miguel de Allende

Hi everyone!

I have been busy these past few weeks. My Peace Corps group returned to headquarters last week for more training, which no one was looking forward to. But it was relatively painless,and it was nice to see some people I haven't seen since June.

From there I went with two friends to San Miguel de Allende for the weekend. We didn't realize that weekend was the festival of the patron saint, San Miguel, but we came at a perfect time. The festivities began with fireworks at 4 a.m. and continued for two hours. They were repeated the following night with a spectacular show. I saw some things for the first time – fireworks were shot from the windows of the huge church in the center of the city (a jaw-dropper), and a flaming circle was launched over the throng of people packed into the central square. Just when it started to descend and I said "this isn’t good,” it ignited into a starburst and dissipated before hurting anyone. A piece of shell casing landed next to someone near me, however, and a cinder hit my friend above the eye and made a carbon tattoo. I never witnessed this kind of show in the U.S., probably because it would never be allowed.

People from five nearby pueblos converged upon San Miguel for the weekend and to participate in a massive parade dressed in indigenous costumes. Sunday morning we thought we heard the sound of horses in the street and ran to the balcony of our hotel. The sound was coming from people walking down the street wearing anklets made of shells. They were decked in fabulous feather headdresses, skull masks and glittering rainbow-colored costumes and on their way to the parade starting point at the end of the block. So we grabbed our cameras and ran to the corner to join them.

We had an amazing time photographing people while they waited for the procession to begin. People were mingling with others in similar costumes, adjusting children’s plumage or reminding them to behave, practicing knife fights, painting faces – and everyone was smiling and enjoying themselves. One pot-bellied man in a costume involving a skull, feathers and makeup was having a final word with his wife, who was dressed in normal, modern attire. I could imagine this man as a furniture salesman or fruit peddler during the week, now transformed into a ferocious weekend warrior.

I also photographed the remarkable face of a woman who was begging on the sidewalk. I asked if I could photograph her and promised to pay. She agreed. Then I told her in Spanish that she had a beautiful face, and took her photo just as she looked away and smiled, perhaps recalling hearing those same words from admiring young men. You can see all the photos at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/20264995@N07/. There are lots … I had trouble deciding which ones were really special. But I hope you will feel as if you were there, too.

Everything I have heard about SMA is true – it is a haven for Americans. Most of the people – shopkeepers, waiters, hotel staff -- speak English, the buildings are maintained and freshly painted, and the cobblestone streets and sidewalks are in good repair. In other words, it is not representative of the Mexico I have seen, and is not the place to come if you want to experience the true essence of the country. That said, there are many fine restaurants and shops, and the scenery is breathtaking. I can understand the appeal for Americans and look forward to going back.

Today I completed the workshop manual for the garden I have been writing to you about. It felt good to get that off my plate. I have an appointment there on Tuesday with the communications director to discuss artwork for a new book they are publishing. I may decide to let them use some of my past work, or create something new for the book. In either case, I feel so privileged to have this opportunity. Imagine – my artwork in a book to help promote a beautiful botanical garden in the heart of Mexico.

Until my next post, I hope you are finding ways to do things that bring you great satisfaction.

Donna